sontag

What's my favorite place? Hmm, the classic question posed to any seasoned traveler. An especially difficult question for myself, as I've fallen in love with a whole host of contrasting locations - aesthetically appalling cities, obscure American-free hamlets, and even classic tourist-infested behemoths. If I had to name my five, well, six (congrats Albania!) favorite countries, here's my list:

iceland

[1] I C E L A N D
Despite Iceland's recent vilification due to its significant role in the 2008 world financial crisis, this stunning island rarely disappoints the veteran traveler. A spectacular mishmash of jaw-dropping natural wonders, beautiful people, copious cultural output, and debaucherous nightlife, Iceland, with a population just over 300,000, overachieves by any standard.

 

brazil

[2] B R A Z I L
Too often dismissed as challenging, poor, and dangerous, Brazil rewards the visitor with not only the most beautiful city in the world - Rio de Janeiro, or Cidade Maravilhosa - but a never ending collection of relaxing beach towns, hellish bus rides (ever see the movie Turistas?), yum yum caipirinhas, and picture perfect islands that could induce an early retirement in anyone. Fancy the simple life in a beachfront shack on a deserted, rambling praia? Visit exhibit A - Ilha Grande.

 

greece

[3] G R E E C E
Whenever I travel in the Balkans, I always end my trip island hopping in Greece. From my beloved isles of Ios and Paros to the jammed tourist enclaves of Santorini, Rhodes, and Mykonos, Greece offers the perfect respite for the weary traveler. The Aegean lifestyle is addictive - lazing around the pebbly beaches in the perpetually cloudless sky, gorging on delightfully fresh seafood during a midnight dinner, and sipping on an ice-cold Mythos in some boxy whitewashed bar until the sun comes up. It never gets old.

 

Croatia

[4] C R O A T I A
The country where I met my girlfriend must make this list, but not only for that reason. A Balkans gem only now being discovered by mass tourism, Croatia, although only 15 years removed from the war, is a magnificent example of under appreciated Mediterranean beauty. From the Plitvice Lakes to the restored jewel of newly-crowned cruise ship favorite Dubrovnik and the near perfect islands of Brač, Hvar, and Korčula, Croatia betrays few hints about the devastating ethnic conflicts from the 1990s.


bulgaria

[5] B U L G A R I A
My first "favorite" country, Bulgaria initially took my breath away. Neglected by most backpackers, Bulgaria offers gently crumbling little towns, tranquil Orthodox monasteries, an overlooked capital city, and a remarkably low cost of living. A significant effort is required of the traveler here - learning the Cyrillic alphabet is virtually mandatory, looking past the oft-grim faces of the weary people in their post-Soviet bloc slumber is recommended, and learning to be patiently flexible when attempting to arrange transportation is required (hitching skills will be needed).

 

Albania

[6] A L B A N I A
Why exactly is Albania on this list? Well, I don't know exactly. However, I do know that something about this challenging land tears at me now and again, begging me to return. The people are more friendly to Americans here than anywhere I have ever been (save Kosovo, which is nearly the same place). While the country has significant urban environmental and infrastructural complications that demand immediate attention, there are certain areas literally shocking in their unexpected beauty, most notably down the Ionian Coast from the Llogara Pass through Sarandë. It's marketed as Europe's "Last Secret," and, frankly, they might be right.

miller

My favorite (mostly) big world cities, in some vague order. United States not included:

R I O D E J A N E I R O
[b r a z i l]rio

I S T A N B U L
[t u r k e y]istanbul

R E Y K J A V Í K
[i c e l a n d]
reykjavík

M O N T R É A L
[c a n a d a]montreal

G A L W A Y
[i r e l a n d]galway

S T O C K H O L M
[s w e d e n]stockholm

S O F I A
[b u l g a r i a]sofia

E D I N B U R G H
[s c o t l a n d]edinburgh

A T H E N S
[g r e e c e]athens

M U N I C H
[g e r m a n y]munich

S A R A J E V O
[b o s n i a]sarajevo

K R A K Ó W
[p o l a n d]
krakow

L J U B L J A N A
[s l o v e n i a]ljubljana

C O P E N H A G E N
[d e n m a r k]
copenhagen

L O N D O N
[e n g l a n d]
london

S A L Z B U R G
[a u s t r i a]
salzburg

B U D A P E S T
[h u n g a r y]
budapest

Sick of the big city hustle? The glamorous capitals and frenzied nightlife? Check out my top five all-time mellow destinations below.

B R A Z I L
[v i l a d o a b r a ã o]abraao The modest sized principal village of Ilha Grande - Vila do Abraão - is the ideal escape from the tense confines of São Paolo and Rio de Janeiro. Upon first glance it would be easy to imagine you were hiking on a remote Tahitian island, never mind a short ferry and bus ride from two of the world's largest cities. The prohibition of cars throughout the island contributes immensely to the inebriating pace of life on this sublime isle.

C O S T A R I C A
[m a l p a i s]malpais costa ricaInaccessible by Costa Rica standards, Mal Pais, Playa Carmen, and Santa Teresa lazily merge at the southern tip of the Pacific-facing Nicoya Peninsula. Seemingly endless kilometers of breathtaking sand and impressive surf, unencumbered by beachfront development, have turned this Central American Eden into a trendy getaway among the Hollywood elite, sans the California pretensions.

A R G E N T I N A
[p u e r t o i g u a z ú]puerto This Argentinean border town, population 30,000, is the more charming partner to Brazil's Foz do Iguaçu. Both are neighbors to one of the world's great natural wonders - Iguaçu Falls. Puerto Iguazu's main streets are sprinkled with vintage neon hotel signs and garages masquerading as weekend pool halls. Numerous open air cafes boast delicious Latin American fare at tremendous value. A youthful population and constant backpacker crowd ensure a vibrant, yet informal setting.

T U R K E Y
[o l y m p o s]olimpos A legendary stop for anyone cruising Turkey's Turquoise Coast, Olympos is one of those few spots that can suck the flexible traveler in for an extended stay. Primary accommodation here is literally a collection of tree houses and bungalows operated by numerous entrepreneurs operating along the unpaved main road. Outside of tree house life, Olympos visitors frequent the open-air Orange Disco spectacularly set in the middle of several impressive mountains.

G R E E C E
[a n t i p a r o s]andiparos Antiparos, located directly across the narrow strait from Paros, is the antidote to booming Cycladic tourism. With an island-wide population barely eclipsing 1,000, Antiparos not only boasts numerous open-air restaurants serving fresh Mediterranean seafood and various sandy beaches with crystal clear water, but even has a massive stalactite cavern near the center of the island.

N O R T H C Y P R U S
[k a r p a z]karpaz Northern Cyprus' Karpaz Peninsula is a prime example of heavenly isolation. My brother and I ambitiously rented a tiny Fiat in Cyprus, crossed the faux-border into this seldom visited land, and proceeded to drive straight at the actual tip of the island, passing by the most remarkable beach I've ever seen (see panorama in right column). The Big Sand Beach Restaurant overlooking Golden Beach is quite possibly the most utopian outdoor restaurant on earth.

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augustine

So, where exactly have I been? Well, many places - over 40 countries and several more ethnically distinct regions. In the near future each country name below will link directly to its own photo gallery. Until that day, however, you can click on the photo sliver below the country name for a single, mildly representative picture from that country. Many are panoramic, so, if you own a widescreen computer, congrats! Only United Nations member states are listed below. Other regions and territories have their separate list lower in this column.

A L B A N I A:albania

A R G E N T I N A:
argentina

A U S T R I A:austria

B A H A M A S:
bahamas

B E L G I U M:belgium

B E L I Z E:
belize

B O S N I A:
bosnia

B R A Z I L:
brazil

B U L G A R I A:
bulgaria

C A N A D A:
canada

C O S T A | R I C A:
costa rica

C R O A T I A:croatia

C U B A:

C Y P R U S:cyprus

C Z E C H | R E P U B:
czech

D E N M A R K:
denmark

E G Y P T:
egypt

E S T O N I A:

F I N L A N D:

F R A N C E:
france

G E R M A N Y:
germany

G R E E C E:
greece

H U N G A R Y:
hungary

I C E L A N D:
iceland

I R E L A N D:
ireland

I T A L Y:
italy

M A C E D O N I A:
macedonia

M E X I C O:
mexico

M O L D O V A:
moldova

M O N T E N E G R O:
montenegro

N E T H E R L A N D S:
netherlands

N I C A R A G U A:SAN JUAN DEL SUR

P A R A G U A Y:
paraguay

P O L A N D:
poland

R O M A N I A:
romania

S E R B I A:
serbia

S L O V A K I A:
slovakia

S L O V E N I A:
slovenia

S W E D E N:
sweden

T U R K E Y:
turkey

U . K . :
uk

U . S . A . :
usa

V A T I C A N | C I T Y:
vatican

There are also a number of places I've been (e.g. Kosovo), while not officially independent states, maintain a unique ethnic or cultural identity and deserve recognition in their own right. The following are either autonomous, independent, or actively fighting for their independence:

C A Y M A N S:caymans

H E R Z E G O V I N A:herz

K O S O V O:kosovo

K R A J I N A:krajina

T | R | N | C Y P R U S:cyprus

R E P U B | S R P S K A:srpska

S C O T L A N D:scotland

T R A N S N I S T R I A:transnistria

V E V Č A N I:vevcani

V O J V O D I N A:vojvodina


keller

I S L A N D S:
Island life is mesmerizing. The Eastern Mediterranean islands boast enamoring waterfront tavernas facing the placid, effervescent Aegean while relaxed villagers stroll the promenade. All a precursor to the buzzing nightlife about to consume the narrow, meandering paths of the whitewashed central town. Brazil's Ilha Grande offers similar fare, albeit in a more rustic, slower setting. I've visited many brilliant islands in my travels, a few - mostly Greek - stand out above the rest:

:: I L H A G R A N D E ::ilhagrande
I'm scared to even mention this South American Shangri-La, as it might be the most perfect, unspoiled place I've ever been. A tropical rain forest, this relatively large island several hours south of Rio de Janeiro flaunts over 300 stunning beaches and zero cars. The views along the two+ hour hike to South America's most magnificent beach - Lopes Mendes - are so beautiful that words and pictures only disappoint. The easygoing village of Abraão, full of tidy pensions, mellow cafes, and refrigerated dessert carts (!), wholly complements the island's virginal interior. Now just don't tell anyone...

:: I O S ::
ios
Party capital of the world to Scandinavians, Italians, Eastern Euros, yet only a handful of Americans, Ios is
the end result of whitewashed beauty clashing with eager youths seeking summer love. The underrated Chora, built into the side of a small hill, allows for majestic panoramas as one ascends to the three tiny chapels that crown the town. The island's simple beauty is rarely noticed by the inebriated revelers, unaware that there are likely more bars in Chora than there are winter residents. Hilariously, the island claims the resting place of the famed Greek poet Homer, if he existed of course.

:: I C E L A N D ::
iceland
Does Iceland actually count? I suppose, considering it's only the size of Kentucky and its population barely eclipses 300,000. When you arrive at Keflavík airport en route to Reykjavík, it's impossible to believe you're on an island and not on the lunar surface. The myriad wonders of Iceland (along with its mesmerizing nightlife) are impossible to summarize without writing a feature length novel - visit and you'll understand. You may never go home...

:: K O R Č U L A ::korcula
This slender Adriatic isle, less glitzy than its more famous counterpart Hvar, stands as a testament to the undervalued glamour of Croatia. The alleged birthplace of Marco Polo, Korčula and its eponymous town lie peacefully in view of the Dalmatian Coast, visited but not hounded. Cramped, charming alleys dot Korčula Town, begging for a curious visitor. My "about" page explains why this island holds a special place in my heart.

:: P A R O S ::
paros
Paros strikes a healthy balance between the hedonistic extremes of Ios and the mass tourism of Santorini. This Greek island lies smack in the middle of the Cycladic chain, big enough to allow for
a memorable night out, yet peaceful enough to avoid a multitude of drunken Brits parading around the main streets chomping loudly on grilled corn. Paros' little sister, Antiparos, lies a short ferry ride away and should not be missed (see lower left column).

:: H V A R ::hvar
Another Croatian island located in the azure Adriatic, Hvar is the former Yugoslavia's celebrity magnet. Its miniature harbor is flanked by massive yachts, its plaka is fronted by upscale art galleries, and its notorious club - Carpe Diem - is sure to be packed with titans of industry and other members of European high society. While Hvar Town is the main stop for most tourists, the island also lays claim to the handsome, serene villages of Vrboska and Stari Grad.

:: C O R F U :: corfu
Diversely beautiful, yet devoid of the stereotypical Greek whitewash characteristic of the brochure-ready Cycladic isles, the large Ionian island of Corfu offers a UNESCO protected Venetian-style town, isolated hill villages, and the renowned debauchery of legendary backpacker destination The Pink Palace. Beware the plate smashing. Actually, you probably won't remember.

:: B R A Č ::brac
Brač is surely the least visited of the Korčula-Hvar-Brač triumvirate, but not for its lack of beauty. While there are no harbors overflowing with ostentatious yachts or pretentious nightspots boasting overpriced Heineken, this Dalmatian Coast island charms the casual traveler who doesn't need to impress his fellow vacationers. The famed Zlatni Rat beach, although lacking the photoshopped beauty of its own postcards, still dazzles the local Croatian turistas.

:: R H O D E S ::rhodes
Former residence of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world - the Colossus of Rhodes - this spearhead shaped isle is a Dodecanese gem. The city of Rhodes is a brilliantly preserved medieval town, famously presided over by the Knights Hospitallers. Venture away from the city and one can explore the seldom rivaled depravity of Brit stag-package destination Faliraki or the labyrinthine alleys of Lindos, crowned by its ancient acropolis dating to the 4th century BC.

:: S A N T O R I N I ::santorini
Although a magnet for newlyweds, first time islanders, and elder, fanny pack-wearing Americans, I would be remiss not to mention Santorini. Even the most fiercely anti-tourist mecca traveler cannot neglect the most photographed island in Greece, if not the entire world. To walk along the cliffs from Imerovigli to Fira is to experience the divine, and to watch the sun set among the masses from the rooftops of Oia is to drown the senses in otherworldly reddish-orange hues.

:: M Y K O N O S ::mykonos
The pride of Euro dance revelers, affluent citizens of the world, and check-it-off-the-list independent roamers, Mykonos is the loud, showy symbol of Greece's Cycladic islands. The winding mazes of Mykonos Town - deliberately designed to confuse invading parties - enthrall all visitors, whether their destination is a divey Scandinavian bar, an exorbitantly overpriced taverna, or a hip lounge in the seductive claustrophobia of Little Venice.

:: S Y R O S ::syros
This rarely visited administrative capital of the Cyclades prefecture would be a shame to bypass. Literally translated as "Hermes Town," Ermoupoli is the most densely populated city in the Cyclades. Countless waterfront cafes adjacent to Mythos-serving lounges are watched over closely by those relaxing on their cozy ship decks. Frequent ferries to Piraeus - the port of Athens - make Syros an easy stop en route to the more heralded Cycladic spots.

:: T I N O S ::tinos
Tinos is a well known pilgrimage destination due to the Marian shrine Our Lady of Tinos. Hundreds of devotees line up daily to kiss a miraculous icon of the Virgin housed within the confines. The street that ascends to this church is lined with numerous shops selling comically huge candles (some taller than me), empty holy water vessels, and countless other assorted trinkets for the faithful. The island's religious fervor, however, in no way diminishes its overall allure.


"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
- Mark Twain

[below] giza, egypt: the great sphinx and pyramid

sphinxyyy

While some may snicker at the unbridled romanticism of Twain's aforementioned quote, I wholly embraced his impulsive carpe diem language upon my college graduation. Until then, my travel experiences were limited to Canada, the Bahamas, and the Eastern seaboard of America. Fulfilling experiences with my family, of course, but it wouldn't be until my post-grad solo travels when I would thrive in the paradoxical comfort of existing far outside my comfort zone.

[below] rio de janeiro, brazil: rocinha favela

Rocinha

The first time I visited Europe I was a week removed from my Boston College graduation. A whirlwind without comparison, this initial European adventure whet my appetite for the mystery, romance, and spontaneity of independent travel. After two weeks of traipsing around carefree with four of my best friends, I commenced my solo journey for the rest of the summer.

[below] nicoya peninsula, costa rica: epic sunset

malpais sunset

I'll never forget that feeling my first night alone in a dingy gothic Edinburgh, Scotland hostel - scared, nervous, and unsure what lay ahead. It would only be days, however, before I would find my rhythm and rapidly embrace my newfound education. Within several years of this first adventure, I had journeyed through 40+ countries on five continents.

[below] ios island, greece: quiet in chora

Ios

I tend to embrace cities that are noxious, crowded, and contain at least three examples of drab, Stalinist architecture. Places like Bucharest or Sofia, Chisinau or Belgrade. In sum, most Balkan cities. Places where the unexpected is the norm, where I feel a million miles from home, and where I'm always checking my pocket to make sure my wallet is still there. There's a certain exhilaration I get from Eastern European or Latin American spots that demand my attention and require my effort in ways that the clean, majestic Western European capitals - e.g. London, Paris, Rome - never will.

[below] sofia, bulgaria: colorful cement block

sofia

While I adore relaxing on a deserted beach in the Aegean or celebrating New Year's excess on Laugavegur in Reykjavík, some of my travels have opened my eyes in a manner that my formal education never had the opportunity. The rampant poverty of the Rocinha favela in Rio de Janeiro, the notorious Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp in Poland, and the mass graves of Srebrenica, Bosnia are just a few examples of places where no guide book is necessary to describe the horrific consequences of previous events. Memories of genocide in the Balkans are still fresh in almost everyone's minds, and the signs of a long, devastating war are everywhere - shrapnel damaged buildings, emotional roadside memorials, bullet strewn graves, and the omnipresent United Nations peacekeeping troops. To think that some of these injustices occurred 9-15 years ago is nearly impossible to believe.

[below] sveti stefan, montenegro: a popular resort

sveti

 

Each trip, no matter the location or duration, has provided experiences I will never forget. Some memorable instances are described in the laundry list below:

[1] witnessing the aurora borealis in iceland

aurora

My fifth visit to Iceland coincided with New Year's 2007. One night, while the rest of my group was out at Laugavegur's notorious bars, my friend Michel and I decided to make a trip to Iceland's vast interior for a Northern Lights expedition. After seeing maybe two cars over three hours, a few faint instances of the lights, and running low on petrol, we decided to give up hope and head back to Reykjavík. As we pulled a u-turn on a remote road in one of Iceland's majestic national parks, we looked up and saw one of the most awe-inspiring sights of our lives.

[2] attending the world cup in munich, germany

world cup

Somehow I was able to secure a ticket for the 2006 World Cup in Munich, Germany at the futuristic Allianz Arena. Even though the game - Serbia vs. Ivory Coast - was meaningless in the group stage, the unrivaled zealousness on both sides was spectacular. Flares were set off at each goal, thousands of fans were singing chants in unison, and I was bracing myself in the suffocating crush of the mad subway dash back to downtown Munich.

[3] finding my way through kosovo, alone

kosovo

Why? That was the question I was asked by virtually everyone throughout my Kosovo adventure. Although a few years removed from the most severe conflict, Kosovo was still a rough, undeveloped land full of UN troops and simmering ethnic tension. I found the land fascinating and the people among the friendliest I've ever met. While I wouldn't classify the capital Pristina as a beautiful city deserving of UNESCO world heritage status, its urban grittiness did retain a certain intrigue in that unique Balkans manner.

[4] being detained by border police in transnistria

transnistria

Perhaps the strangest, wackiest place I have ever visited is the de facto independent state of Transnistria, a small sliver of Communist-run land wedged between Moldova and the Ukraine. Getting in was difficult - I was pulled off the bus along with a translator and interrogated by a "border" agent with a vintage USSR cap, replete with hammer and sickle. He asserted that, since I was American, I must be in the military, and he also asked me if I sold religious books. After paying a small bribe I was given a one-day visa to this bizarre Soviet-style theme park. A genuine throwback like I've never seen before. A young female employee in the local football team store told me I was the first American she'd ever met. Another government agent radioed five different guards before I was allowed to take a single picture of their gleaming football stadium.

[5] getting robbed by a gypsy in braşov, romania

brasov

I had been warned many times about Romania. Most backpackers had been ripped off at least once while traveling through, and I was no exception. In the chaos outside the Braşov train station, I purchased a cheap bus ticket, waded through the chaotic crowd onto the bus, sat down, and discovered my wallet - previously in my front (!) pocket - was missing. As the bus took off, I noticed a mini Gypsy girl, about six years old, running away with my cash, credit cards, and vintage college ID. There are few things more frustrating than trying to cancel credit cards from a run-down hostel in Transylvania. Losing my treasured college ID, however, crushed me more than anything.

[6] celebrating the 4th of july in a turkish cave bar

goreme

My brother and I have spent several July 4ths abroad, with our Turkey experience near the top of the list. The region of Cappadoccia in central Turkey is composed of bizarre, lunar-like landscapes, with "fairy chimneys" full of little caves that contain dwellings, shops, and more. Our 4th of July celebration consisted of drinking and card games with two hilarious Aussie friends in a cave bar named "Flintstones." Ah, the reach of western culture! Curiously, we were an hour flight away from the Iraq border.

[7] meeting my girlfriend on July 4th in croatia

korcula

Thank God for the Happy House Hostel (rechristened "One Love") on the halcyon island of Korčula, Croatia. As noted on my about page, it was here in 2006, on the 4th of July, that I met my girlfriend Sarah at the Happy House. The sunset that evening was spellbinding and, although we actually spent little time together in Croatia, seven months later we would meet back in America and the rest is history.

[8] visiting horrific sites from the bosnian war

srebrenica

The senseless destruction of Bosnia during the Balkans wars is apparent throughout this hauntingly beautiful country. Every single city and town has countless visible scars. From the rebuilt bridge at Mostar (Stari Most) to the infamous Holiday Inn at Sarajevo and the horrid killing fields of Srebrenica, the Bosnians have suffered an incalculable amount. Most shocking is that the Srebrenica genocide, Europe's worst mass murders since World War II, took place only 13 years ago.

[9] experiencing rio de janeiro, brazil

rio

I strongly believe Rio de Janeiro to be the most insanely beautiful city I've ever seen. The famed sands of Ipanema and Copacabana, hovered over by the dramatic Pão de Açúcar and the mesmerizing statue of Christ the Redeemer, all combine to form the most impressive big city landscape possible. I still get goose bumps thinking about my first passing glimpse of Corcovado late at night from the back of a speeding cab.

[10] wandering around the jesuit ruins of paraguay

paraguay

Having entered Paraguay sans visa (not recommended), I endured a painful three-hour ride from the certifiably crazy Paraguayan border town of Ciudad del Este to Trinidad in the Itapúa region of this poor, landlocked country, the entire journey undertaken in the pouring rain on a bus with no windshield wipers and no lack of wandering cockroaches. However, the effort paid off, as the Jesuit ruins, constructed during the 17th and 18th centuries and now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were resplendent with their astonishing detail set against a placid Paraguayan field. There were no other visitors at the site.

[11] cave tubing the caves branch river in belize

belize

One of the coolest things I've done was, ironically, the result of a group tour offered on a family cruise that stopped in Belize. My brother and I took a bus ride through the Belizean jungle with a tour operator who would not stop uttering, "Belize It!" and "Un-Belize-able." After hiking shirtless in the rain while vicious red fire ants attacked our unsuspecting feet, we entered the long, meandering cave system. Tubing through the caves, with major sections in pitch black, was absolutely exhilarating.

[12] getting a flat tire at the very tip of cyprus

cyprus

Yet another comical adventure with my brother. During our visit to the unrecognized "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" we proceeded to drive through the Karpaz Peninsula straight to the extreme tip of the country. Unfortunately, our Euro-sized rental car earned a flat tire at the last few feet of Cypriot real estate causing us momentary anguish since there was no one within miles of this place. After my bro, professional tire changer, luckily threw on a barely capable donut, we only wound up being detained at the "border" for several hours as we tried unsuccessfully to talk our way out of a speeding ticket. Thank god Ayia Napa was an all-night party town.

[13] cruising down the nile river after a visit to giza

nile

It's pretty tough to beat a tour of the Sphinx, the Great Pyramids, the renowned Egyptian Museum, and then cruise down the Nile River outside of Cairo, even if there are the usual mass-tourism drawbacks. The claustrophobic tunnels of the Great Pyramid coupled with the corrupt police officers looking for small bribes to take photos of tourists make for a priceless experience. I find it striking that most views of the Pyramids make it appear as if they stand alone in the middle of the desert, when, in fact, the packed tour bus lot and encroaching suburbs of Cairo creep right up to the eastern boundaries of the Giza Plateau.

[14] looking over athens at night from the acropolis

acropolis

Love or hate Athens, one cannot help but feel a sense of awe when ascending the ancient Acropolis steps in suffocating heat. My love for Athens (one of those crowded, dirty, hectic cities) was confirmed on my first visit when my brother and I stumbled upon a dramatic late night panorama of the city from an outcropping near the famed Propylaea. The dense, flickering lights of Athens' sprawl beneath the flood-lit Acropolis combine for an unrivaled big city spectacle.

[15] hiking the mountains around bled, slovenia

bled

Lake Bled is the reason postcards are produced. Although the town feels overcrowded in summer with European tourists (I would even recommend nearby Lake Bohinj for a more tranquil setting), I received a helpful local tip about a hiking trail outside the town that reveals a captivating panorama (above) at its apex. The sweat-inducing hike was obviously worth the result, as was paddling a row boat out to tiny Bled Island so I could ring the 15th-century church bells.

[16] staying overnight at rila monastery, bulgaria

rila

Nestled in the Rila Mountains of southwestern Bulgaria, the 10th-century Monastery of Saint John of Rila is one of the Balkans' most important religious monuments. Along with two close friends, I was lucky enough to secure one of the monk's cells for one evening. Rustic, yet enchanting, our room lacked most modern conveniences. However, even when our 8pm curfew was taken into account (not that there was anywhere to go outside the walls), our night spent in faux 10th-century solitude was memorable by any definition. Even more entertaining was hitchhiking from Rila Monastery to Sofia, almost 100 miles away. Surprisingly, it wasn't as difficult as it sounds.

[below] christ the redeemer towers over rio

corcovado

Although only a handful of my most impressionable moments, I hope you've gotten a little taste of why travel means so much to me. I'm thankful for the places I've been, the opening of my eyes, and the people I've met along the way, many of whom I still stay in touch with. As this website expands, I plan on adding significantly more travel content, including a full gallery from every country I've visited, city/country reviews, travel articles, more lists (top ten beaches / churches / hot dog stands, et al), guest travel columns, and more. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you'd like me to host your network's travel show or write for your travel magazine!

[below] santorini island, greece: irresistible infinity

santorini

 

One final note - while I love reminiscing and even romanticizing my past adventures, I'm always mindful of Santayana:

"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it."
- George Santayana